4/8/08 - Well, I'm officially a slacker for not updating my website more frequently. As I've stated in the past, life keeps getting in the way of working on the Nova. The kids are growing like crazy and we "finished" the addition on our house. I've been able to sneak out into the garage on occasion to get stuff done on the Nova.

I finally got the new water pump painted and installed. I also got a new set of alternator brackets too. I had to go through three different sets before I found a set that was Nova-friendly. The set I pictured before didn't leave any clearance between the alternator body and the inner fender on the driver's side. Of course, I didn't find this out until AFTER I'd had them powder coated. Dammit. At least the pulleys turned out OK and fit properly.



I ended up using a low-mount alternator bracket from a guy on Ebay. Great bracket and pretty cheap too. I'd post a link, but I can't find that he's selling them any longer. Rudy at Modern Performance Classics makes one of these also, and if that's your only choice, use him. I've heard varying reports about his reliability though.

I had to make one small modification to the bracket in order to get it to clear the balancer cover I'm using on my harmonic balancer. It rubbed slightly on the alt bracket, so I trimmed a little off of the outside edge with my grinder.



Since I moved the alternator, I had to do some rewiring in the engine bay and I decided to get some better, and better looking, battery cables. They weren't cheap (NAPA), but they're exactly what the engine bay needed. They're not as blingy as what I had on there earlier, which is good. They fit better with my engine theme.



I also took the opportunity to use some marine bus bars to make it easier to power new circuits in the engine bay. This made getting power to the new fan controller easy as well as giving me a place to easily route the alternator output to. Here's what I used for the bus bar and also the switch I used inside for the fan override switch. This way I can force the fan to run when I want it to rather than just when the thermostat says to activate.



Here's the fan mounted to the custom shroud I had built to mount my Zirgo 16" fan to. In retrospect, had I known that I would switch to a short pump, I could have made the shroud about 1" taller, but this should work out OK as is:



Ok, I've still got some wiring routing and clean-up to do, but I've verified that the fan is operational, at least with the override switch on. I still need to test that it turns on when the thermostatically controlled switch says to activate the fan. I bought a Derale controller from Summit that worked out pretty good for this. I was even able to mount it in the engine bay without having to drill any new holes.



Next up on the list of things to do is to bolt on the new 2" cowl induction hood that I bought so that I can get cooler air into the motor. I need to bolt it on and then get myself an air box to seal off the cowl from the engine bay. That shouldn't be too difficult as many other people have done it before me. I'll get pics and story posted when I attempt to tackle that. It should be soon.....



04/10/08 - Backstory: I'm adding a cowl hood to my car so that I can get some fresh air into the engine bay and maybe drop my ET a little at the track. I don't want the cowl hood on there just because it's pretty; it must be FUNCTIONAL too.

Tonight I ordered the tallest 16" pan that I could find, 4", that would fit. $31 (including shipping) is much better than what the RamAirBox people wanted for essentially the same thing ($150). With an appropriate rubber seal around the rim (another $20-$30), it should seal nicely in the 16" hole in the underside of my new hood. I considered using a 17" or 18" pan to make sealing the top of the air pan to the hood easier, but they only came in at a max height of 3" and I wanted some more height adjustment room. My plan is, if the 4" pan is still too short, is to install a carb spacer to move the air pan closer to the hood by moving the carb's air cleaner base mounting ring upwards. I haven't decided yet whether it'll be an open plenum or a 4-hole one when/if I have to choose that option. My next step is going to be to build a jig to measure under-hood clearance between the hood opening and where the new air pan is going to sit. I've got a couple of ideas on an easy to way to do it with some spare wood in the garage.



back home